3 - Rex A & B - Pockets and Darts/ Construction

I’ll be demonstrating using Rex A, the ankle pant. The straight and ankle pant are the same in the waist, zipper, and upper thigh. The ankle tapers slightly as it grades towards the ankle. The cuff is added as a design element, but can be omitted if a slimmer pant is preferred.

B, the straight pant has the same construction methods, but includes a regular hem to finish.

To begin, we will be working with our front panels - I like to add the darts after the zipper has been sewn.

When sewing your darts, reduce your stitch length to 1.5” about an inch from the dart point. Run the thread off, leave tails when you snip.

Tie your tails, and press your dart seam towards the center seam of your pants.

You will often see a “bump” at the point of a dart, this is created in part by the stitch length and backstitching.

By reducing the stitch and tying off your threads leaves a lovely, smooth and very professional dart point.

POCKETS:

Sew your pockets, stopping at the end of the curve.

Open your pocket, with the right sides facing up.

Flip both your seams towards the pockets and understitch, running your stitch line on the side of the pocket.

Once sewn, fold your pocket to the wrong side, press and sew an edge stitch as shown below.

Next, we will slide our second pocket underneath the leg, as shown below:

Pin at the waist and leg.

Slide your other pocket under your pants legs, pinning as shown above - on the small section on the side and the top.

Sew these small sections within the seam allowance.

Turn your pants to the wrong side, and pin your pocket bags together as shown.

And sew, to create a finished pocket bag. Repeat for the other leg.

Back legs:

We have a single dart on each of the back legs.

Sew both darts, using a smaller stitch length as you reach the point and tie the tails.

Press towards the outer seam.

Thats it!

Legs next!